tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36613330466500508882024-03-12T17:01:23.156-07:00Of crafty works and a nutty infidel......there and back again. The words of a nutty infidel, flung to the present world from the silent mysteries of 15th century medieval England. Enslaved by a yearning to recreate this time in the hope of one day returning home...Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-2049378772460079362012-05-21T05:26:00.000-07:002012-05-21T05:32:56.846-07:00Of the pondering of early corsets... Part 2!<div style="text-align: center;">
<u>Part 1 Summary:</u></div>
<br />
<a href="http://nutty-vix.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/of-pondering-of-early-corsets.html">http://nutty-vix.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/of-pondering-of-early-corsets.html</a>
<br />
<br />
The last discussion briefly covered studying the effect and body language of figures in Medieval portraits and paintings. The combination of artistic licence, medieval symbolism and a modern understanding of how natural materials shape and form have made the beginnings of a somewhat ambiguous debate over the origins of the corset. We also covered the power of personal experimentation and how the development of tailoring changed the way they chose to manipulate and display the figure, be it for medical, practical or cosmetic reasons. This progressed onto how they might have gone about creating 'bodies' or stiffeners for torsos - buckram, glue and hemp cording and wood were considered.<br />
<br />
<u>Part 2</u><br />
<br />
After another long period of mulling over, someone has resurfaced the topic and renewed my interest in early corsetry, so here (finally) is Part 2. Over a year on, and the Squiggle's ideas have yet further developed! I've also come across some more possible primary evidence, both for external and internal shape forming.<br />
<br />
One of the wonderful things happening over the last year has been the release of more close-up photographs and studies of certain well-known sources, such as the 'Closer to Van Eyck' study of the Ghent Altarpiece:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://vaneyck.kikirpa.be/">http://vaneyck.kikirpa.be/</a>
<br />
<br />
My first ever 'posh' frock was based on one of the houppelande gowns depicted on here, yet there was a limit to how much I could observe in a tiny jpg image a few years ago!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhvAPmUigBviMEOVBrhlPxnk1mEYsR28hwRHzBiPgXCmk1awHQtKHI-X_j2e2rOHuj18qnfFyrQjD4KEu85eJz3WIMPEccDiwj2Z_zD-_nHI2byoNs7HxgDy7wD_DQMCUH1FJWlxx9Xj4/s1600/il_570xN.273286508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhvAPmUigBviMEOVBrhlPxnk1mEYsR28hwRHzBiPgXCmk1awHQtKHI-X_j2e2rOHuj18qnfFyrQjD4KEu85eJz3WIMPEccDiwj2Z_zD-_nHI2byoNs7HxgDy7wD_DQMCUH1FJWlxx9Xj4/s200/il_570xN.273286508.jpg" width="198" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjICjnrEFF8d0Cg7vKUaPX0YqfAlrii2_6ccBrXCO20ducST9cTHE2IeHEnlCpN9TmR1zsJLPiKuVTu9nDTD68AyBlEsBZgmuzCp1nBrpeJUcwSX-jEde0agebKH7S1BDqqXoQhSCir6gQ/s1600/il_570xN.273286924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjICjnrEFF8d0Cg7vKUaPX0YqfAlrii2_6ccBrXCO20ducST9cTHE2IeHEnlCpN9TmR1zsJLPiKuVTu9nDTD68AyBlEsBZgmuzCp1nBrpeJUcwSX-jEde0agebKH7S1BDqqXoQhSCir6gQ/s400/il_570xN.273286924.jpg" width="283" /></a></div>
<br />
Inevitably, this amazing close up study has revealed flaws in what I thought I could see and the exact garment construction and layering. For a start the 'V-neck' opening extends far deeper than I first imagined. It goes to show that you should always review your own interpretations, even if you are convinced that you've got it right! Hence this post.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<u>Of Holding Everything Up and In!</u></div>
<br />
You may have noticed that I've acquired a wide leather girdle in the last year too! My partner Matt made it for me and has kindly let me borrow a business photo of it:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYfUuaFF4ECksLs-UWdCuwyPQWjuJkPrWvdI0LoSWFzwvrtvJ-kfn1HalsS1LWtyspwX0Adglfn4rqaGrN0Q4WnMlt7j6ySlECEK6IolqsYpLLNoEEvNaXE1nTKpe5kyH22XSFvROyBgE/s1600/53873857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYfUuaFF4ECksLs-UWdCuwyPQWjuJkPrWvdI0LoSWFzwvrtvJ-kfn1HalsS1LWtyspwX0Adglfn4rqaGrN0Q4WnMlt7j6ySlECEK6IolqsYpLLNoEEvNaXE1nTKpe5kyH22XSFvROyBgE/s1600/53873857.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Zd0KgJs4BQIrqfwB9XlIztpZFRGMTzhPzbNwVnURKGveGMonln09R1cdNEZsKG1ICYXdZPfKUOawCKiaE16obS_-yOsmtv3KRb1iHhJqRp4cYkF5sGzZnDZYMcFjCOkpbkuEm8J1Qzw/s1600/423814_363779946984790_195839403778846_1389978_473555138_n.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Zd0KgJs4BQIrqfwB9XlIztpZFRGMTzhPzbNwVnURKGveGMonln09R1cdNEZsKG1ICYXdZPfKUOawCKiaE16obS_-yOsmtv3KRb1iHhJqRp4cYkF5sGzZnDZYMcFjCOkpbkuEm8J1Qzw/s400/423814_363779946984790_195839403778846_1389978_473555138_n.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
So why am I side tracking on the topic of belts? Well, one of the things I've noticed about wearing a wide leather girdle is a sensation not dissimilar to wearing a corset! So not only would have a wide girdle represented a woman's wealth, it would additionally provide considerable physical support. Such a girdle was particularly popular with the Burgundian style gowns, as it looked best worn directly under the bust (good bust support too perhaps?).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrYu0OdKif67nNwX2Kb03degdQs_G5-lUqMVCDHGDE4-hDCCTkPz_3g3UKhc51TOWlouxX6W8koji17SuhJXdDbzVavaPix5ERMACLzC0x1ovCAOgbRZsUJl-WHewV7rF1AeTXaIMwHPM/s1600/Maria-Portinari+crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrYu0OdKif67nNwX2Kb03degdQs_G5-lUqMVCDHGDE4-hDCCTkPz_3g3UKhc51TOWlouxX6W8koji17SuhJXdDbzVavaPix5ERMACLzC0x1ovCAOgbRZsUJl-WHewV7rF1AeTXaIMwHPM/s400/Maria-Portinari+crop.jpg" width="318" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Hugo van der Goes (1440-1482), Saints Margaret And Mary Magdalene (background) with Maria Portinari (<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px; text-align: left;">1476-1478)</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Which brings me to the next observations of Maria Portinari and her daughter (?), as pointed out by my friend Caroline. Maria (left) is wearing an extra-ordinarily wide girdle in an wealthy looking, impractical white/cream colour. Look slightly down. What are those ridges in her skirt? A very stiff petticoat? A hooped skirt in its infancy? Tabs from a bodice of some description sticking out? </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now look across to the young girl. What doesn't look quite right? She could be perhaps somewhere between eight and fourteen years old? Old enough to be being prepared as a bride. Although she has the stature of a child, her waist comes in and flares out lightly over the hips in an odd fashion. Enough waist in fact that she can hang a belt on it! Even if there is a petticoat under the skirt, what's bringing in her waist? Also ask yourself this: If children were dressed alike to their parents, why go to all the effort of having a front laced gown on your growing daughter when the girdle is such a simple solution? Is the girdle simply a social status symbol, or does it tell us more about how they viewed displaying young figures of a marriageable age? Very fishy. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Let's start to look again at body shaping possibilities, from the inside outwards.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u>Bandaging</u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u><br /></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
For those with a limited budget, this is an option! Babies were swaddled, so it stands to reason that children alike may too have been wrapped to ensure that they grew straight. However doing it well could entail having additional help and Lots of time. (For those who have watched Shakespeare In Love, it may bring to mind the method Viola used to 'hide' her feminine features).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1oSBgT2yVy16vFjkqbYN30g868KPB0BLkFzWbi8BJ5rHSYgD4W8wtNlX3S7UnqyAqBa4MISkgn6XaZWuztcyJGQl90vbj1OxdvZ6VO9qowEVaPQmXnW-p2rSyX17Sp4IAIp9K6vmRVxc/s1600/Bound+breasts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1oSBgT2yVy16vFjkqbYN30g868KPB0BLkFzWbi8BJ5rHSYgD4W8wtNlX3S7UnqyAqBa4MISkgn6XaZWuztcyJGQl90vbj1OxdvZ6VO9qowEVaPQmXnW-p2rSyX17Sp4IAIp9K6vmRVxc/s320/Bound+breasts.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Shakespeare In Love (1998), Viola's disguise secret is unravelled!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had a fiddle with some fabric on my waist, both cut on the bias and straight. Cut on the bias, it had stretch and a better flexibility to natural shape although rather soft, whereas on the straight I was able to pull it more taught, but it was harder to manipulate and firm. The tricky bit was keeping it flat and smooth, so the strips had to be narrow and medium-fine in thickness. One of the liberties was that you could cover as much or as little flesh as you wished, which the bias cut was better suited for.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<u><br /></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
However the average historical re-enactor does not necessarily possess that kind of time and help, both to practice and put through its paces for shows. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
So that brings us back to the next kind of layer - a garment in its own right.<br />
<br />
<u>Corded bodice</u><br />
<br />
I've chosen this route with string or hemp cord (as opposed to buckram) first because as I found from the bandaging, the softer the material you use, the more you can play with the tension. Second because the sources show softer figures still, rather than the rigid structures so I'm avoiding a completely unnatural appearance. Third because my body is not accustomed to wearing a corset daily, so it puts less strain on my body.<br />
<br />
Think of it if you will as a 'vest', warm and protective. I plan to use diagonal as well as vertical lines of cording, for there is more integral strength, particularly down the front. (See Part 3 for further explanation.)<br />
<br />
That said if the buckram (or even cardboard) were cut into vertical/diagonal strips/panels and treated like modern corset boning in pockets, it may have a similar effect.<br />
<br />
Gentlemen may not wish to cover the whole of their torso, for usually it is triangular shape and the bottom edge of a corset may dig in with little to hold it up. A belt-like support (rather like a wrestling belt? either separate or integral to an outfit) with lacing might be better suited. And although they don't tend to have so much hip for a corset to sit on, they could try slight tabs below the waist seam (if there are jacket tabs) to help it sit right and exaggerate the finish. Any thoughts?<br />
<br />
<u>Stiffening of Outer Garments</u><br />
<br />
Only recently it occurred to me that men's arming jackets for war were quilted over numerous layers of fabric, or sewn in tubes and then filled. Very similar to bodice cording! See below. A current Cotun commission has had me mulling over all the different approaches one could take to construction.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy2JqGl6x9JCTU6XJRI5OZC5NXgMkS5BXbhTXXYOFwzRXlT823M1mWJ4UCjdNcM2l7-B7ncUzqpsw2wd_GL96hbMKTZKfbCMGqGFQoLMPXEKKm6BxBBGGtbpnxGuI7Xe-iJEPY8mpK718/s1600/Cotun.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy2JqGl6x9JCTU6XJRI5OZC5NXgMkS5BXbhTXXYOFwzRXlT823M1mWJ4UCjdNcM2l7-B7ncUzqpsw2wd_GL96hbMKTZKfbCMGqGFQoLMPXEKKm6BxBBGGtbpnxGuI7Xe-iJEPY8mpK718/s400/Cotun.JPG" width="143" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Men's Cotun - one of the few illustration examples</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY2mrdffkZSWW53c76iR6gBh2_tHO41gkyXHqvKndX3cmZkGkaDdNywV-ZVYxh5GKZOZv3qALsr3GE_YsEQFswB_9kmzOR6yo-s5gREr3nMo2eZH8Ll8CFae1NuQKIKjkGPWmeXWcLBU8/s1600/170855379583058363_hxKT2HiP_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY2mrdffkZSWW53c76iR6gBh2_tHO41gkyXHqvKndX3cmZkGkaDdNywV-ZVYxh5GKZOZv3qALsr3GE_YsEQFswB_9kmzOR6yo-s5gREr3nMo2eZH8Ll8CFae1NuQKIKjkGPWmeXWcLBU8/s400/170855379583058363_hxKT2HiP_c.jpg" width="157" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
1445-1452, Bernat Martorell, Alter of the Transfiguration, Barcelona Cathedral, thanks to Jessamyn's Closet: <a href="http://www.jessamynscloset.com/">http://www.jessamynscloset.com/</a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The image above from Barcelona shows a Lady in an over gown with taught side lacing, with lots and lots of fixed pleats or a cording effect. This shape is striking and smooth and probably adds to to integral warmth of the garment. I've heard suggestions of stiffening along just seams, but it seems to me that the best results are produced when cording is a core part of the construction of a garment itself. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Part 3 to come! </div>Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-56105433469413590932011-07-12T10:50:00.000-07:002012-05-20T14:56:45.327-07:00Of the late 15th century Armourer's wife... 5For those of you who are reading this strand for the first time or need a reminder, this is the story of the dress thus far:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://nutty-vix.blogspot.com/2011/03/of-late-15th-century-armourers-wife.html">Part 1</a><br />
<a href="http://nutty-vix.blogspot.com/2011/03/of-late-15th-century-armourers-wife-2.html">Part 2</a><br />
<a href="http://nutty-vix.blogspot.com/2011/03/of-late-15th-century-armourers-wife-3.html">Part 3</a><br />
<a href="http://nutty-vix.blogspot.com/2011/04/of-late-15th-century-armourers-wife-4.html">Part 4</a><br />
<br />
It seems this project is an ongoing experiment - I had the opportunity to wear it for the first time at a show recently; even then altering and finishing it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQNXIm4jZriTotsvh8JuPnFHsVa8hq0atcty4wW1LcsHk4Y8hznl5w_GFpwM1m9NNu8w9nElKSPULWZYokyuKBHHAwry4jJASqIxMo4ZWFlcd7WL-L26TN-hqWEKrJ3FFbx2SV_AFs-Q/s1600/dress2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQNXIm4jZriTotsvh8JuPnFHsVa8hq0atcty4wW1LcsHk4Y8hznl5w_GFpwM1m9NNu8w9nElKSPULWZYokyuKBHHAwry4jJASqIxMo4ZWFlcd7WL-L26TN-hqWEKrJ3FFbx2SV_AFs-Q/s1600/dress2.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpz8oAzkvxmnWtjSEx-cVYfY8-Ho93KEVahk2sYvZnKYEywTaiEA9GxSllyg4SJ-mrfdp47NDwpttDol0zKt98kxOPIf1bGhah-nrlSwmOGgJehNxrIyMWgLey7UXTffxj1rarUHDChZ0/s1600/dress1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpz8oAzkvxmnWtjSEx-cVYfY8-Ho93KEVahk2sYvZnKYEywTaiEA9GxSllyg4SJ-mrfdp47NDwpttDol0zKt98kxOPIf1bGhah-nrlSwmOGgJehNxrIyMWgLey7UXTffxj1rarUHDChZ0/s1600/dress1.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
It's not being worn here with the final underdress, but it looks quite nice with the green damask! One friend has already asked for a pattern of it so they can have a version too. A lot of people ask how I get the belt to stay, but it sits very comfortably on the gathered skirt.Can't help but be tempted to try wearing a corset underneath, though it'd need taking in first! ;-)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Fingers crossed there'll be a photo of it being worn with the black brocade sleeves and red underdress soon!</div>Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-21609754126192435932011-07-12T10:10:00.000-07:002011-07-12T10:10:42.897-07:00Of Sam's Sari Maxi Dress 2... finished!!For those of you who read this <a href="http://nutty-vix.blogspot.com/2011/05/of-sams-sari-maxi-dress.html">blog post</a> a while ago, i'm proud to announce that this dress was recently completed! :-) Sam seems happy with the result, so here are some brief finished shots:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhTphadYkmQSpfJGXDHe26kyLsrBnQqX1vl2Ew4oh0vN7Wz0G1wcNhVzblx1H91q69Teww_EdVemCzdNKDhYeQaSOnQXLc7u31jHKgilKtb6dRuq6-uung2UN7MnCTn_br96eNjXkSPUs/s1600/IMAG0047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhTphadYkmQSpfJGXDHe26kyLsrBnQqX1vl2Ew4oh0vN7Wz0G1wcNhVzblx1H91q69Teww_EdVemCzdNKDhYeQaSOnQXLc7u31jHKgilKtb6dRuq6-uung2UN7MnCTn_br96eNjXkSPUs/s400/IMAG0047.jpg" width="301" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiikOvM67nhsI4LatMcuYXAP9wvafTto6CoKtaN4bnxg4uqZBR2Xd4TMRDmOYMwPGDsJ5ZcFKgrJ_LI8gcc_Ps7KANRGnlnNU-yr-wnxSbzaSYQ50N7qX5P_nNHfnv3mdbqnR833ly0TsU/s1600/IMAG0046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiikOvM67nhsI4LatMcuYXAP9wvafTto6CoKtaN4bnxg4uqZBR2Xd4TMRDmOYMwPGDsJ5ZcFKgrJ_LI8gcc_Ps7KANRGnlnNU-yr-wnxSbzaSYQ50N7qX5P_nNHfnv3mdbqnR833ly0TsU/s400/IMAG0046.jpg" width="301" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">It needed ironing, but it fitted! Hoping that there will be some shots of her wearing it for her birthday party coming soon! :-)</div>Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-61105601195286355592011-06-06T16:09:00.000-07:002011-06-06T16:09:56.342-07:00Of busy bee times and textiles to come...Feels like a loooooooooooooong time since the Squiggle last posted! She has been such a busy Squiggle!<br />
<br />
Sam's sari maxi dress is nearing completion, it just needs the final tweaks and one last fitting...<br />
<br />
Friend Harriet has requested a cotton, short summer dress, so we've found her some creamy broderie anglaise, cotton lawn and some Cath Kidston strawberry pattern fabric to be transformed. Next, the pattern! So a second session is require for the design to be finalised, the pattern formulated and the fabric cut.<br />
<br />
A set of doll's clothes for friend Sandy has sat in a box recently waiting to be continued, so that's on this week's sewing lists...<br />
<br />
My early fifteenth century, red wool overdress and red linen underdress needs to be completed within the next two weeks for a show, as does friend Alicia's outfit of blue cotton overdress, red linen underdress, cloak and headdress will all have to be created in this time too. Fortunately we have her speedy sewing machine to hand, so over-locking shouldn't be a problem. She is also a different shape body-wise to me, which poses new challenges....<br />
<br />
Was there anything else?<br />
<br />
Oh yes, and i need to pack to move house... this last weekend was spent hoovering dog-haired rug and carpet in my home-to-be.... Also i believe there is a presentation to sort for a week friday... hmmm....Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-45446318681976512592011-05-18T17:17:00.000-07:002011-05-18T17:38:16.056-07:00Of a late fourteenth to early fifteenth century dress...Good evening blog reader! :-) The Squiggle has been more industrious than ever...<br />
<br />
So, with my late fifteenth century armourer's wife overgown nearing completion, now was the time to get moving on my slightly earlier, late fourteenth to early fifteenth century merchant dress, which is needed for other living history functions and wearing to an assessed lecture for my degree.<br />
<br />
Let's show you a transition of styles in Europe, from slightly looser fitting gowns, through to the beginning of clothes tailoring as we know it now. You might notice that there is little differentiation between countries at this point, though the material itself becomes increasingly elaborate.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2a/Romance_of_alexander.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2a/Romance_of_alexander.jpg" width="278" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>The Romance of Alexander, France, 1338-44</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2a/Romance_of_alexander.jpg">Source</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(I love the tapering end off the sleeves in this one!)</div><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/95/Bologna_marriage_women.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/95/Bologna_marriage_women.jpg" width="255" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>A marriage - a European Bride and her ladies, 1350's</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/95/Bologna_marriage_women.jpg">Source</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(Note the slit down the side of her overgown, trimmed with ribbon or braid)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/21/Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_juin_haymaking.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="366" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/21/Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_juin_haymaking.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Two women raking hay, <span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;">Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry, Juin the Musée Condé, Chantilly.</span></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 19px;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/21/Les_Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_duc_de_Berry_juin_haymaking.jpg">Source</a></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/95/Italian_breviary_c._1380_women.jpg/488px-Italian_breviary_c._1380_women.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/95/Italian_breviary_c._1380_women.jpg/488px-Italian_breviary_c._1380_women.jpg" width="520" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>Italian illustration, ladies in silk gowns with a saint, ca.1380</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/95/Italian_breviary_c._1380_women.jpg/488px-Italian_breviary_c._1380_women.jpg">Source</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">(I love the saint's stripy underdress sleeves :-D)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSFqf3xVbQkGZxYITrcni_G7ggV48C4JrNzpcoC6w1jtAsdILBtZXlD_EHmExb_KJ0XOwfEALc4FfZCSShBpHryrbeoNKiCNVUCQY6B2xN-JohI8AtW4Pb2SQ5ZvauZF0bLZ8DfgL_SEM/s1600/belles.heures%252C+1408-1409.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSFqf3xVbQkGZxYITrcni_G7ggV48C4JrNzpcoC6w1jtAsdILBtZXlD_EHmExb_KJ0XOwfEALc4FfZCSShBpHryrbeoNKiCNVUCQY6B2xN-JohI8AtW4Pb2SQ5ZvauZF0bLZ8DfgL_SEM/s400/belles.heures%252C+1408-1409.jpg" width="317" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"></span></span></div><div align="center" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Belles Heures de Duc du Berry, St. Jerome Tempted by Dancing Girls, 1408-9</span></div><div align="center" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><a href="http://www.fibergeek.com/img/belles.heures.19.jpg">Source</a></span></div><br />
<br />
I've had to hand some of the softest. finest red wool (bottom left) i've ever beheld - one could mistake it for velvet! I've also had a subtle brocade in off-white/cream (right) and red linen (top left) to spare for lining:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8d3Km0AV9PsDl7yHA4G4yqgVPD5fraahrESM5QpQQtDBMu2ZWBUoPTfRwEz5_HjhO9uo8i7QJNhIQ7UzbS6twdXLwUf70Y4VkSbc_Cu0uUF42pNE2tzokY580zS5AGjRmAl_Tz_QnzOA/s1600/P1040392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8d3Km0AV9PsDl7yHA4G4yqgVPD5fraahrESM5QpQQtDBMu2ZWBUoPTfRwEz5_HjhO9uo8i7QJNhIQ7UzbS6twdXLwUf70Y4VkSbc_Cu0uUF42pNE2tzokY580zS5AGjRmAl_Tz_QnzOA/s400/P1040392.JPG" width="398" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The pattern I've used looks something like this:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://genvieve.net/sca/herjol38.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="375" src="http://genvieve.net/sca/herjol38.gif" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 14px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Herjolfsnes no.38 tunic with 8 fitted gores and two center front and back gores</span></b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 14px;"><a href="http://genvieve.net/sca/herjol38.gif">Source</a></span></div><br />
The Herjolfsnes gown has been used frequently by re-enactors as a source for an original pattern. Its survival is one of only a pinch of resources. The 'gores' (aka panels) allow the gown to be adjusted to closely fit the body, thus achieving the tailored finish. The top left image is a rough pattern for the sleeve (the little triangle sits a little higher than the shoulder blade, rather than in the armpit where we normally put a diamond shaped insert for freedom of arm movement).<br />
<br />
I plan to fasten it down the front with buttons or lacing and possibly have tippets (arm bands with long, dangly bits at the elbows) in white/cream. The fabric has been all cut and the front half of the wool tacked. With time so tight, i've resorted to sewing it together with my old hand-turn Singer machine, rather than hand stitching the whole lot! I'll wear my red linen underdress with the black and gold sleeves underneath....<br />
<br />
Here are a few shots to give you an idea - better ones to come when more tacking comes out and i can model it! ;-) With the nature of its shape, it's impossible to lie completely flat out. My apologies for the strange colours - my camera wouldn't behave tonight under the room light....<br />
<br />
Front body: Right hand side of dress has been machine sewn, left hand side to go, hence the more vague seams.The middle-centre seam has been tacked for the moment to allow me to alter the shape appropriately, but it will be released for lacing later.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj97xjmfbA0fHU5FbBAWRoc549-Avxaak8CaiXj3mGJqb7qWani2uShS3OyFjfKH2i5eOsW7EVPVdAogDmbXqzqh7_jgTk62VeZBZQNxKOKPavFRavzpWBshABgB1L7Qoi-Chfz55vR-A/s1600/P1040436-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj97xjmfbA0fHU5FbBAWRoc549-Avxaak8CaiXj3mGJqb7qWani2uShS3OyFjfKH2i5eOsW7EVPVdAogDmbXqzqh7_jgTk62VeZBZQNxKOKPavFRavzpWBshABgB1L7Qoi-Chfz55vR-A/s320/P1040436-1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Skirt spread: I've closely followed the pattern above, but bringing the front seams a little closer to my bust line because of my petite shape. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHtfeF9pv7-8b_AvfZeYW6MMzWVBw9W0uDUjSvgv4JK_FePmuWD5HmnT4tQ5TlXkxQ8QYg415twzfw4cNlqMd8uMBUQD1xC6sOpecTQJVM9ylnrzFTqORQV-GMHgjgnPiCkT6KRUB0-m0/s1600/P1040437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHtfeF9pv7-8b_AvfZeYW6MMzWVBw9W0uDUjSvgv4JK_FePmuWD5HmnT4tQ5TlXkxQ8QYg415twzfw4cNlqMd8uMBUQD1xC6sOpecTQJVM9ylnrzFTqORQV-GMHgjgnPiCkT6KRUB0-m0/s400/P1040437.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Better photos and more progress to come! Watch this space! ;-DVixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-69577186286753161252011-05-08T17:03:00.000-07:002011-05-08T17:08:45.694-07:00Of Sam's Sari Maxi Dress...It's been one of those bits 'n' bobs days again.<br />
Today was a pattern fitting with my friend Sam for her sari maxi dress, which i'm making for her birthday. In essence it's quite a simple concept, but being a perfectionist i wanted it to fit her well...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizK3-W7W6BLetdAuoBKiItDvfCK9eXp2wtDOWRTDIOth_Jjj9G9NV5DoKdTN5CjPR5rKANRdiTZobR4qtnFYJ-i2JQzydGVZHZfjArXitzNvUZ5LpZYVUIH72gjOSWF1grm_ANuagJL08/s1600/P1040420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizK3-W7W6BLetdAuoBKiItDvfCK9eXp2wtDOWRTDIOth_Jjj9G9NV5DoKdTN5CjPR5rKANRdiTZobR4qtnFYJ-i2JQzydGVZHZfjArXitzNvUZ5LpZYVUIH72gjOSWF1grm_ANuagJL08/s400/P1040420.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This is my typical first or second sketch, filled with crammed measurements - i'll add a neater sketch, worthy of a portfolio, later. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Below, the fabric for the main body of her dress (the same as my 1950's dress). All the fabric for her dress is from the same sari, just different segments of it. The half of her body pattern shows off her lovely hourglass-style curves to full effect (ignore the fluorescent man making cunning plots)!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
</a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s320/P1040413.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOc94BLZBfsQXBphVVoMrLJL3-9haB8XQuvHIZ2vhacGDP2ONU9u8ME2XtGEgHxu4Zjvmvxy3Jalali9PdZrrpWucWgLk3XoeHtBshToq6HXk00ztfnpEIpIhK7miXSJscg_Upg9szBgU/s1600/P1040422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOc94BLZBfsQXBphVVoMrLJL3-9haB8XQuvHIZ2vhacGDP2ONU9u8ME2XtGEgHxu4Zjvmvxy3Jalali9PdZrrpWucWgLk3XoeHtBshToq6HXk00ztfnpEIpIhK7miXSJscg_Upg9szBgU/s320/P1040422.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><br />
The bust has proven slightly trickier - rather than just a primitive triangular shape, Sam wanted a halter neck style. So i've sat and shaped it to avoid any funny gapes. Fortunately she's almost the exact same size as me, so i could use my own dresses to help shape it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiMoMAIdz_huTfFJgOCGctSd21TZ6o5nkSmocwTc83dqdK5aFtpybJIvMgmuur3zmWuAFWteHbLHkchr0Bifwkq7WNkDj2j0aU1oQJZteX_5Eoe3Kx-jdOqxaz02RKSqiDHVXrm3q0nOw/s1600/P1040421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiMoMAIdz_huTfFJgOCGctSd21TZ6o5nkSmocwTc83dqdK5aFtpybJIvMgmuur3zmWuAFWteHbLHkchr0Bifwkq7WNkDj2j0aU1oQJZteX_5Eoe3Kx-jdOqxaz02RKSqiDHVXrm3q0nOw/s320/P1040421.JPG" width="213" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExome0ZKZi3WTby5bJY4wRM6cNZggx9mV19myU_0v2mzziHYk5tdsZ67DRTiFapmYjlG37gY0meq-ZI3agHCKwH8g9aJ17r2O5w1jszSziq78y0wseqEk6g1AsEExCODOBx_xhji-0aI/s1600/P1040426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgExome0ZKZi3WTby5bJY4wRM6cNZggx9mV19myU_0v2mzziHYk5tdsZ67DRTiFapmYjlG37gY0meq-ZI3agHCKwH8g9aJ17r2O5w1jszSziq78y0wseqEk6g1AsEExCODOBx_xhji-0aI/s320/P1040426.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Above, the fabric for the bust and the pattern for the bust. The creases at the bottom are the result of experimentation of where i should make tucks. I'm not showing the reverse of this pattern, which Sam pointed out to me features the crotches of hunky rugby players... I don't observe these kind of things when i'm trying to make someone else's figure look good lol! It's been promised as a souvenir for her wall... ;-D</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJhpK2-o0D-3Wb3Ahux1SGKrmG1Gi7JPDnUcQlfz1na3zDEs0lzo0itHKYBels15doeCVHTqu0BK0p7KPPTRSwxxI61q4c-455jJYV5kraRlAm3oMBwG_Emz2vLLovjblF2fvYHynCVxg/s1600/P1040425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJhpK2-o0D-3Wb3Ahux1SGKrmG1Gi7JPDnUcQlfz1na3zDEs0lzo0itHKYBels15doeCVHTqu0BK0p7KPPTRSwxxI61q4c-455jJYV5kraRlAm3oMBwG_Emz2vLLovjblF2fvYHynCVxg/s320/P1040425.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
Above is the fabric for a triangular insert into the back of her dress. She wants the dress to fit everywhere else, so this piece is vital for allowing her to walk in it. It will start at the base of her hip level and flair out to the bottom.<br />
<br />
The whole dress will be lined with pale pink cotton lawn because the stitching on the back of the sari is so fragile. The danger is that the threads will catch and the back of the fabric is rather see-through and scratchy, so it will be soft and protective, yet light.<br />
<br />
Next is to get the lining and use it to get the basic shape, do another fitting on her, then cut the sari. This sari frays too easily, so i'm leaving cutting it until the last minute! :-)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiMoMAIdz_huTfFJgOCGctSd21TZ6o5nkSmocwTc83dqdK5aFtpybJIvMgmuur3zmWuAFWteHbLHkchr0Bifwkq7WNkDj2j0aU1oQJZteX_5Eoe3Kx-jdOqxaz02RKSqiDHVXrm3q0nOw/s1600/P1040421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; color: black;"></span></a></div>Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-41901541974716081322011-05-04T17:38:00.000-07:002011-05-04T17:38:16.868-07:00Of odds, ends and the first Sari dress...<div style="text-align: left;">Dissertation has been finally handed in. Final term of my BA degree underway. For the first time in weeks, the Squiggle has been able to sit down and do odds and ends of costume and other people's bits. Whoopee!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Bits included my armourer's new green doublet to match my wool gown for Tewkesbury, starting to cut out a friend's doll clothes pattern, sewing the hem of my armourer's gown and making a start on my summer dress...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><u>The Summer Sari Dress</u></div><div style="text-align: center;"><u><br />
</u></div><div style="text-align: left;">In the last couple of years i've spent hours trying on baggy dresses in high street shops - i have a few favourites for ones that actually fit, but they cost anywhere between £30-50, and even then they're not always top quality. This year, i've had enough. I can buy a pretty sari with anything up to five or six metres of fabric for as little as £15-£30, so the theory is that if i can make up to three items per sari, it's only costing me £5-10 roughly each (excluding lining, threads, buttons, zips, etc). Even with lining, it's still possible to make cheaper, yet much better fitted clothing for myself. Expecting to make my own Wedding dress to cut costs in a year or two, it will be an excellent exercise in practising making dress patterns through trial and error. </div><u><br />
</u><br />
The main inspiration has been the returning fashion of the 1950's - i love those dresses; the way they fit in the bodice and cut across the chest, then flair out from the waist down, often with netted petticoats. On the other hand, i have a strange love for the vibrant colours and textures of Asia. Coming from a family with history of living in India (with the suitcase of photos to show for it) and having a handful of Pakistani friends at school, i guess it's always been intriguing. Indian saris are becoming one of my favourite things to collect - they can be reused as something else or worn as they were intended. They're graceful and elegant. Wondering how i was going to use some of the saris i have to create a modern dress, i found this:<br />
<a href="http://www.vintageous.com/dresses/vc2769.jpg">1950's black and gold printed cotton dress</a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtOqswJeDxkYznk80n8BR8PCxiBHTN4OIUl2Auqhc5dZacvl7zmWxy6dxk1WBwi5HnwqrX8IKlqd1mZVlj5OwOk58QjnVKwpBwhctUfLFxLSRnoiNHkRMv1jeOX9X9Yr_dDe3k0Q9Hk40/s1600/vc2769.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtOqswJeDxkYznk80n8BR8PCxiBHTN4OIUl2Auqhc5dZacvl7zmWxy6dxk1WBwi5HnwqrX8IKlqd1mZVlj5OwOk58QjnVKwpBwhctUfLFxLSRnoiNHkRMv1jeOX9X9Yr_dDe3k0Q9Hk40/s400/vc2769.jpg" width="258" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">It's beautiful! The neckline cut is straight across the back too, however i've chosen to have a slight 'V' instead, so the back panels have changed a lot. The front neckline however was the main inspiration, and the way it is clear that a sari was used to create this. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I have a pink and blue sari with lovely bits of sequin embroidered round some of the edges. When cut, the fabric frays quite alarmingly, so I have had to work very quickly with it to halt disintegration:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGNffO0rb2POhmLa7nrklXSTubj3zPpKwMOwpP7s0nSv3m382gvSyrG2nruGg7IKyfp0ivHFeTiTKgcgjhFmpOLXiyxU6PAzaS1BS-N9b-89lgDTeUB2Lup6EMBilJ1KSjoirIMkKUFts/s1600/P1040410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGNffO0rb2POhmLa7nrklXSTubj3zPpKwMOwpP7s0nSv3m382gvSyrG2nruGg7IKyfp0ivHFeTiTKgcgjhFmpOLXiyxU6PAzaS1BS-N9b-89lgDTeUB2Lup6EMBilJ1KSjoirIMkKUFts/s640/P1040410.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;">The bodice of the dress - to be lined and have straps added, so the armholes won't actually be this small! :-)</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">It's a very rushed photograph and the fabric needs ironing, but hopefully it should give you the gist. The seams up to the bust are closer together on purpose since i'm quite a petite frame. It looks odd flat, but once it's against me it looks ok. I've hand sewn this first dress, simply for the control factor and the uncertainty of how such fraying fabric would be affected by a machine.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">A closeup of the fabric:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s1600/P1040413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSta-QbjMUY4ebV-A1vxkFt82Ed3AvYuq0Vg_Ui5ypqdgA_19-359WuxJ1y9WSGidzQNK73lQ2SAFoc710kdpLsZgvxvNue2nAh1_wY0wDPNs1tMymZn8hhNr7HBvr7xnzmeD04R4_F48/s400/P1040413.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The embroidery on the pink edge has had to be knotted wherever it was accidentally cut so as not to lose any embellishments. Hence only using the pink for the front of the dress. Still love it though!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">Next is the lining, which is a must for this dress to protect the embroidery threads on the back and to dispel some of the fabric's transparency. (As advised by my lovely friend Licy) I have had enough soft pink cotton left over from my armourer's dress lining to use for this project's bodice, which will suffice. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">I've not even thought about the lining of the skirt yet.... though i've a feeling it'll have to be pretty radical for those rogue gusts of wind... ;-)</div>Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-22583833682348112842011-04-16T15:56:00.000-07:002011-04-16T15:59:29.627-07:00Of the late 15th century Armourer's wife... 4It's been a long long long time since i last posted... at least, it feels like it! Dissertation has had to take priority, but sewing a little in the evenings has kept my sanity. FINALLY i've got the green sleeves sewn and altered to fit on my green overdress, so i've got some piccies here:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8fHayXwx1teybZQRbR05vQber4yYtYeqhtcIKAHElKKaLZ1kJ92EFVzFevcpn-nFdsWoTmI7xGnA2xAQ98A_EQyjkcdLZhzbn7kauTJ85H4LmtzmuWBziNvMmlQ1j9oO9LUisMsJ6ic/s1600/P1040325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8fHayXwx1teybZQRbR05vQber4yYtYeqhtcIKAHElKKaLZ1kJ92EFVzFevcpn-nFdsWoTmI7xGnA2xAQ98A_EQyjkcdLZhzbn7kauTJ85H4LmtzmuWBziNvMmlQ1j9oO9LUisMsJ6ic/s320/P1040325.JPG" width="319" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_i3MAzZ7Wo8P-NT7n4CnQoIjLyFYXuct0TO_CmewylKkLSKfiP1S5nBo0vm4iaB4WlOOgcQmUZXpePvXkZS8-UUVb2_WEh9-aD9JniqciD4zrdiEO2Xt5XoFtl0X4lkVnEycwqaBWBRk/s1600/P1040327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_i3MAzZ7Wo8P-NT7n4CnQoIjLyFYXuct0TO_CmewylKkLSKfiP1S5nBo0vm4iaB4WlOOgcQmUZXpePvXkZS8-UUVb2_WEh9-aD9JniqciD4zrdiEO2Xt5XoFtl0X4lkVnEycwqaBWBRk/s320/P1040327.JPG" width="319" /></a></div><br />
I've tried to make them not so tight that i can't fit my lined underdress sleeves through. On the subject of underdress, already, the weight of the skirt has taken its toll on the close jump rings fastening the sides... I fear I may have to remove them and add braid/more material to strengthen the sides. before reattaching the rings, so that they don't rip the fabric! I may add some strips of red linen behind the openings, to avoid a draught... brrrr....<br />
<br />
Next on the overdress is the hem; although i'm running a vague stitch through the seams of the lining and outer wool so that this is a lot easier! The dress as a whole requires ironing, something i've still failed thus far to do, so it must be done soon... mwahahahah!Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-7347827851819742252011-04-01T07:36:00.000-07:002011-04-01T07:51:04.067-07:00Of show girl presentation and good habits...It's a windy, sunless day outside, so the prayers are that nature is saving the sun for this weekend - Show Time!!<br />
<br />
I can be found doing what my friends consider insane and what my fellow re-enactors may consider enthusiastic. I'm hand washing all kit that needs it, polishing and conditioning leather shoes and jewellery, brushing off any missed dry mud (though considering my kit's been in storage all winter, that should have been done anyway last year) ironing my medieval dresses and checking them for any loose threads or tears that require mending. I suspect my underdress needs altering. My fiance can be found finishing my ladies girdle and polishing his own armour in his workshop for the same occasion.<br />
<br />
For me, this is a necessity. Tonight and tomorrow morning i will pluck my eyebrows, wash my hair, clean my nails and make sure there's no polish on them; check everything is packed so that nothing's out of place for this weekend's show at Cardiff Castle. So why do i care so much? Why does attention to every last detail for a two-day event matter?<br />
<br />
The answer is quite simple. I'm a show girl, and i do it properly. Always have done, always will do.<br />
<br />
Picture for a minute this: <br />
It's a medieval event at a castle, you're the public and you've paid money to see a high standard presentation of how medieval life would have been.When you go inside, it more-or-less looks all as it should be, so you take pictures and look forward to playing with them and uploading them to the internet later, or showing them to your relatives. But when you sit down to look at them later on, you spot one girl shot in costume with bright red nail varnish glaring at you, distracting you from the fine rings on her hands, or detail to her sleeves. Another has a dress so creased it must have been crushed in an attic for ages, you can barely appreciate its patterns. Another clearly has used a modern hair band to hold her hair away, and yet you wonder how medieval women really kept hair tidy? Some man in a shirt, coat and hose is licking on an icecream and you wonder why they have a watch visible? Was this really a good show? Did you believe in the people you were observing? <br />
<br />
They may sound really obvious mistakes, and the funny thing is that most of the above are really easily solved and are usually the result of forgetfulness or sloppy laziness. Ironing is time consuming admittedly, especially if it is a huge houppelande, but it's no different to ironing the rest of your clothes - it's a respect thing. Both for yourself and what you're wearing. Even just hanging it correctly can limit creases. Sometimes medieval veils had deliberate creases, but that's different. If you want deliberate creases in your veil, do not detract from this by being careless with the rest of the outfit. Nail varnish can be removed in seconds with pads or solution. Hairbands can be covered by ribbons and strips of leather. Thick, gothic makeup or cakey mascara can quickly turn an outfit from natural to fantasy. Minimalistic is always best - makeup only became cakey in Elizabethan times. Even straightened or curled hair by artificial means can look so very wrong! Watches if they must be kept can be hidden in a pouch or wooden box well away from the public. The icecream is a food for when the public has gone home - can't you have a word with the icecream van and arrange for them to reserve you one? It's funny how slipping on one minor thing can completely ruin the overall look. <br />
<br />
Perhaps this attitude all goes back to my experiences and habits from the age of eight. I often miss working on stage, where everything had to contend with bright lights and colours. Foundation was bright orange, eyeshadow was bright blue, lipstick bright red, thick mascara, khol black eyeliner and the blusher was positively doll-like. You could be covered in spots on a bad day and still look a million dollars with thick makeup on. All you had to do was sit in front of a mirror for 30 minutes applying it, it was like some kind of soothing ritual. You could do your hair slick back in a tight french plait with gooey gel that would set hard and look smart as anything. Slip on a ready costume that had been maintained by the costume department. All you had to do was turn up with a box of makeup, tights and dance shoes. Those were the good days. :-) My Mum never let me be anything less than smart, and it gave you the feel good factor. Perhaps it was only wearing makeup for special occasions that meant i never felt the need or drive to wear it for school; there was no point - you only got in trouble. Why do that when you could save it all for later?<br />
<br />
But what people forget in re-enactment is that working in full contact with the public is even more exposed. You don't have several metres and the darkness between you. In some respects i prefer working face to face with the public than behind several string barriers because it keeps you on your toes. You don't get lazy with your appearance. You pay even more attention to the 'look', just to get it right. If you're one of those who perform behind a barrier, try to treat it like you're face to face with them in your appearance. And people appreciate it. I even scent myself with incense smells of the time so that the public get the whole experience. Many learn best by the memory of sights and smells and colours, so it should be encouraged. The lovely thing is the smell lingers, so it leaves your silks and linens with a slightly spicy scent over the winter. I don't apply makeup if i can help it, otherwise it just rubs on my outfit - pale skin was fashionable. I confess that sometimes the odd dash of pale foundation is applied if skin misbehaves, but never anything too noticable. It can also be tricky putting on suncream when you've got so much makeup - better protected than burnt - the 'burnt princess' or 'cooked knight' look is not impressive...<br />
<br />
Maybe i sound a little... OTT or obsessive when it comes to detail, but i firmly believe that attention to every last detail can make the difference between an ok performance, or a gobsmacking one. If you can't get it right when it truly matters, why bother?Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-33778808805452679162011-03-30T16:26:00.000-07:002011-03-31T10:11:25.761-07:00Of a Princess's upside-down-ice-cream-cone-with-the-tip-lopped-off-by-a-Knight Hat......aka a flowerpot (or 'truncated') hennin blog post about my posh hat in the making. ;-)<br />
<br />
Ok girls, i'm going to have to do to you what my archaeology lecturers did to me when they told me to forget everything i'd learnt about Indiana Jones and Time Team...<br />
<br />
You know that pointy, cone-shaped hat you wore as a little girl to look like a medieval princess? Otherwise known as the 'conical' or 'steeple' hennin? Well here's the crush. It was a French fashion that didn't last very long. Probably for very obvious reasons, pure impracticality probably being the most likely. For some inexplicable reason, in the modern day it epitomises what girls think of when they think medieval princess... however they are extremely pretty!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBicM-IWAGGVqTZhnrhjtPgnG7Z-Vvdxg3BbWJW2SeZBqotA6kRiVeuFI0x5uaTskSAy26kkecGtCRlW9AC-0EBUBQa3w9Oqxwytoa3ssHtdEiq8nPGhu9alm4CHsUuFzDGpguBBG65I/s1600/Hans_Holbein_Temple_Detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBicM-IWAGGVqTZhnrhjtPgnG7Z-Vvdxg3BbWJW2SeZBqotA6kRiVeuFI0x5uaTskSAy26kkecGtCRlW9AC-0EBUBQa3w9Oqxwytoa3ssHtdEiq8nPGhu9alm4CHsUuFzDGpguBBG65I/s320/Hans_Holbein_Temple_Detail.jpg" width="196" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You can find one of the best collections I've ever found of such image examples on Marie Chantal Cadieux's page: <a href="http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-hennin.html">http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-hennin.html</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Her whole website remains one of my most used web pages as a resource for costume help. It's excellent and very well thought out!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">You may notice that many of these hennins do not have an entirely pointy top - they tend to be slightly rounded, or lopped off. Many women when historical re-enacting now (including myself) opt for something somewhat more practical. Like this:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHsf3915xz4j35e8RKMLGNJ3NFMHlOVT7CN1MdDJ83ss9_XkrCOhHqVuFO1zDM2P8IQ8Ca_MnqqYFILsiQx5FjgFqsiGUVbcBnN3AExykO4pxntmXF0OjzQ34poOrBjhRJjEl69sE9WlI/s1600/166105_10150357718050075_731840074_16649567_6243895_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHsf3915xz4j35e8RKMLGNJ3NFMHlOVT7CN1MdDJ83ss9_XkrCOhHqVuFO1zDM2P8IQ8Ca_MnqqYFILsiQx5FjgFqsiGUVbcBnN3AExykO4pxntmXF0OjzQ34poOrBjhRJjEl69sE9WlI/s320/166105_10150357718050075_731840074_16649567_6243895_n.jpg" width="304" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>... and it's fantastic! You just gather your hair into a ponytail or plait, fine hair net or grip it back, tie a width of lined fabric round your head with a flap over your forehead... put a flowerpot shaped frame on your head made with leather, felt or buckram and place a linen or silk hennin coverlet over the top. Pin your flap and coverlet together, pin over a cotton/linen/silk veil if you wish, then fold the two back to secure it to your head! Voila! Your hair stays clean and protected, unaffected by the sun, wind and rain. If done well it should hold all day and you needn't fiddle with it. Here is same hennin of mine with veil added:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9f9dY3n8qV7GDIFPDKrkfoXJFM2gYCGHthyphenhyphenuh9AsIX_6WD7e30oso-4-b54X5XM5eaf7VTZoiFANBjESOH0yNSmjr7atEWr-PsfI6duWsG2sRLFGa37g0A_b6p8FfIcgmiFMiKsR8bNw/s1600/10134_291974470074_731840074_9357098_5647706_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9f9dY3n8qV7GDIFPDKrkfoXJFM2gYCGHthyphenhyphenuh9AsIX_6WD7e30oso-4-b54X5XM5eaf7VTZoiFANBjESOH0yNSmjr7atEWr-PsfI6duWsG2sRLFGa37g0A_b6p8FfIcgmiFMiKsR8bNw/s1600/10134_291974470074_731840074_9357098_5647706_n.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Some hennins have a headband of black round the head and along the base of the hat, with a loop over the forehead, presumably to allow it to be pulled back on if it slips. I use one of black (cotton, not synthetic) velvet with my heavier hennins for it has friction that helps the hats fix.<br />
<br />
One must note that hennins look a great deal better if worn at at least a forty-five degree angle on the head or parallel with the floor, rather than straight up. Search all images, and you will find that non of them are worn like tower turrets. In my own image of the hennin without a veil I feel that on this particular occasion it was not far enough back, though i have a suspicion that that had more to do with the misshapen nature of the frame underneath.<br />
<br />
The best simple frame without fuss i've found yet is the felt fez. My one was not cheap, so i made sure it fitted comfortably before I splashed. It has so far survived many squashes in a travel bag. See below:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihia92SOASvfHMjzQPnGAfFr0XRmqHCCvpOL3XCWF-lMJ7Dosb8iczA33KKNCpSYEK6vXjoltHkp8V8tUlLxEl_uK4hU28XYteaHg1WhJLtvTXHlbvqz1QaUgqqI6xOdIxPB0R-821gS8/s1600/P1040262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihia92SOASvfHMjzQPnGAfFr0XRmqHCCvpOL3XCWF-lMJ7Dosb8iczA33KKNCpSYEK6vXjoltHkp8V8tUlLxEl_uK4hU28XYteaHg1WhJLtvTXHlbvqz1QaUgqqI6xOdIxPB0R-821gS8/s320/P1040262.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Before I'd even covered it, it was required for an event at Kelmarsh last year, so i simply hid it under a beaded silk veil Worked a treat, hardly anyone noticed it was just a fez:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2fWmQtFZ6_8mNaDkr-IvahIZzW5yFb-GrBaiWrx_wO6ujJPxGJ68YweCjwXioIY5bwpBmb1Gighxj_8qgWRljzQPXZYraqus4_lCXWZ1EGu1klZeNqYLQ-q2GV5w_v-4csOY6X83voVI/s1600/52294_10150291140195075_731840074_15448165_1202686_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2fWmQtFZ6_8mNaDkr-IvahIZzW5yFb-GrBaiWrx_wO6ujJPxGJ68YweCjwXioIY5bwpBmb1Gighxj_8qgWRljzQPXZYraqus4_lCXWZ1EGu1klZeNqYLQ-q2GV5w_v-4csOY6X83voVI/s320/52294_10150291140195075_731840074_15448165_1202686_o.jpg" width="217" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>So this year I was determined it deserved a cover worthy of a noble Lady! Not sure where to start, I bought some goldish coloured silk and couched gold thread down in a diamond pattern on it. Couching work was a popular embroidery technique, and it was something I knew I needed to practice.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuc7m7YuOPHAtZ-FsCRTlJhQLV-BaD2StNz3ND21n5pGtihkZiA-EKJhWh0rgxjI_BlMsDpxXuDMac1wb-CIXUzgNC0l9aevfIIUFtyRdWjNcQkdsVIL-sPwGQ70RkT9en4LYwNzhgrHs/s1600/P1040257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuc7m7YuOPHAtZ-FsCRTlJhQLV-BaD2StNz3ND21n5pGtihkZiA-EKJhWh0rgxjI_BlMsDpxXuDMac1wb-CIXUzgNC0l9aevfIIUFtyRdWjNcQkdsVIL-sPwGQ70RkT9en4LYwNzhgrHs/s320/P1040257.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Couched gold thread with black intersecting crosses.<br />
<br />
I've covered the whole fabric with it.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslC500oWk5tzP8ZvHxIgT-wzq_5sWhaV_v63uW4bSDOaTlB3THjJe8pQEhOzlr9dfcaBjMBk01bbr_qjfoZ2eUWiCRgEzga4HKO5liZWF-egsX-JOYZFuMIpkRPf6otjeFNhGnqkcpgw/s1600/P1040253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslC500oWk5tzP8ZvHxIgT-wzq_5sWhaV_v63uW4bSDOaTlB3THjJe8pQEhOzlr9dfcaBjMBk01bbr_qjfoZ2eUWiCRgEzga4HKO5liZWF-egsX-JOYZFuMIpkRPf6otjeFNhGnqkcpgw/s320/P1040253.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Added glass seed beads in green, gold, black and pearly white. Pearls were a more authentic option than pearly white glass, but also a lot more expensive.<br />
<br />
This has so far only been a quarter completed, so its a slow process - normally I can be found on the train sewing these tiny beads on. Some passengers think i must be so patient, others think i'm plain mad! :-) I'm not patient, i just want this posh hennin so badly! Not sure i'll finish it in time for my show this next weekend, but i'll get there soon... fingers crossed...Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-50606610758259954492011-03-25T17:57:00.000-07:002011-03-25T17:57:04.815-07:00Of the late 15th century Armourer's wife... 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><u>Part 3:</u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><u><br />
</u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So one Squiggle sewed like mad today, trying to hand stitch the skirt of my over-gown on firmly - this wool's quite heavy and i don't have much faith in my stitches, so i was concerned it would drop off.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Front:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDOFvQW88qOgcvSSkBlJ-sZKm9XoQly1TvAXsttiYUPbHRBdujc5CVnTED_caQFwg7b0G1EXKN9SI6VQqaUbzvdwwE5QAVeEtgCbTGrGTiynFrmCjSjjt3-D4o7l7t4txGNuI2FZFe7JA/s1600/P1040175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDOFvQW88qOgcvSSkBlJ-sZKm9XoQly1TvAXsttiYUPbHRBdujc5CVnTED_caQFwg7b0G1EXKN9SI6VQqaUbzvdwwE5QAVeEtgCbTGrGTiynFrmCjSjjt3-D4o7l7t4txGNuI2FZFe7JA/s320/P1040175.JPG" width="221" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Back:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioxX2J5IrM89n_pU1parjEBUJcDkQPBqR59T-AtT0gwsCnUu1e8yJNi9igxDr5XQJpKmlz8_Hk2gOFNoUO0Fe-xRbvwCYh5MR_3CQ3_IwzdPFnXGH40BAjVAyP_PTvoo6htrl1Lp9poiA/s1600/P1040178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioxX2J5IrM89n_pU1parjEBUJcDkQPBqR59T-AtT0gwsCnUu1e8yJNi9igxDr5XQJpKmlz8_Hk2gOFNoUO0Fe-xRbvwCYh5MR_3CQ3_IwzdPFnXGH40BAjVAyP_PTvoo6htrl1Lp9poiA/s320/P1040178.JPG" width="221" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Letting it hang for a while, hopefully it'll settle itself. The bottom hem needs levelling and sewing together. The side lacing and sleeves are next, plus finishing the under dress and sleeves. So close now! Then all it needs is a partlet, apron..... ;-)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Saw all my scraps of damask and brocade today and wondered if i should make a panelled modern dress or coat with them....</div>Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-12319593382889184742011-03-23T17:32:00.000-07:002011-03-23T17:32:21.763-07:00Of the late 15th century Armourer's wife... 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><u>Part 2</u></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">So to recap, the dress on the right is the dress that first inspired me:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGGkxYVhFkAYY5eYq9q6TB4LiFBCP42NxgF3k34ZvDIm3F40GTQq8227lQ6QZHBdO3Ogeqtg7uWYZYWZxUl34W8h6f1l81qvMCS-sO43qr9bzU8O8lQK0qcj3hZVeeO1mBk1wTF1BVl9Y/s1600/Brocade+sleeves+and+gathered+skirt+at+waist+%25281465-8%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGGkxYVhFkAYY5eYq9q6TB4LiFBCP42NxgF3k34ZvDIm3F40GTQq8227lQ6QZHBdO3Ogeqtg7uWYZYWZxUl34W8h6f1l81qvMCS-sO43qr9bzU8O8lQK0qcj3hZVeeO1mBk1wTF1BVl9Y/s320/Brocade+sleeves+and+gathered+skirt+at+waist+%25281465-8%2529.jpg" width="224" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I loved the colours of green and pale pink, and i have enough gold brocade for the under sleeves... the fiancé is hoping to make it an appropriate belt. I have a ready-made pale pink head linen wrap from a traders fayre to match, so looking forward to the comfiness of that this summer...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">So this is my upper body nearing completion. (Please excuse its state of crumpledness, it does need an iron). The pink lining is somewhat more transparent than anticipated as it is almost like a lawn, but it feels so soft! The green wool was bought from Bernie the Bolt, and is an absolute dream to work with, such gorgeous weight! Pins are still in place down the sides until i sew them, but for the most part it is finished. Still deciding if i should further decorate the dress....</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Front:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aWLe-LmZp11V5hPoE-uaPaSjN-rCrnRXo84jbmox4-Lj6y05rwkIxp7N-SholZE5E4Gu7oDofs7Plyz5OtjEEG5lNTEuxkOazfESg4wXQGnUDWRYH9rJ4UuJMPkFoICl5xxQ-k8J8zQ/s1600/P1040168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8aWLe-LmZp11V5hPoE-uaPaSjN-rCrnRXo84jbmox4-Lj6y05rwkIxp7N-SholZE5E4Gu7oDofs7Plyz5OtjEEG5lNTEuxkOazfESg4wXQGnUDWRYH9rJ4UuJMPkFoICl5xxQ-k8J8zQ/s400/P1040168.JPG" width="398" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Back:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MGWBhHGjzp58avE4KZYBfMZEgLcT8C7yrSiK0Z5G9WM8RPKy42hMmRnkobLeeWUdcuVjFhLYhQi0hNT-xL5_ZNEA3KKrydy6WzvHc3rnhY-A_WqgNQX_2jEn_1sJnnLhjb1vuFQ01q8/s1600/P1040173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MGWBhHGjzp58avE4KZYBfMZEgLcT8C7yrSiK0Z5G9WM8RPKy42hMmRnkobLeeWUdcuVjFhLYhQi0hNT-xL5_ZNEA3KKrydy6WzvHc3rnhY-A_WqgNQX_2jEn_1sJnnLhjb1vuFQ01q8/s400/P1040173.JPG" width="397" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The skirt is more than a full circle of fabric - the lining is all cut out and sewn together,though the outside green is just cut out and needs putting together. Hopefully this'll be done in the next few days. The short outer sleeves will be attached when the skirt is complete....</div>Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-16992283222674320552011-03-22T18:00:00.000-07:002011-03-22T18:05:32.278-07:00Of frivolity and flights of (wedding veiled) fancy...I was asked by Mum what kind of veil i wanted for my wedding outfit today. She's decided to make the lace for the edge of it (yay!), so she requires a vague idea of how much she needs to slave over. Momentarily stumped, I proceeded to research Regency styles, realising this was one big area i'd completely forgotten. According to this quick research, women didn't always wear them and only if they could afford such frivolity. The lace edging was usually the expense that put many off. Most veils that were drawn appear to have been of medium length with a square/round hem and lots of flowers with curled hair, usually pinned to the back of the head or gathered and draped over the top. (see below)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_O5OoWv3vaD0nzBT2mDJ7mujuoVPyDtaikJXcMbqkmHDL9OFoMrZJ6B4ALwjFLp6DHPKfq-Dd8EkdyZ8xUG_V2bFNz1wqvwrT8EFZzfQNet4nPeg-cfhTkP7eYlXLAu8fH26DazWJTw/s1600/Augustin%252C+1801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_O5OoWv3vaD0nzBT2mDJ7mujuoVPyDtaikJXcMbqkmHDL9OFoMrZJ6B4ALwjFLp6DHPKfq-Dd8EkdyZ8xUG_V2bFNz1wqvwrT8EFZzfQNet4nPeg-cfhTkP7eYlXLAu8fH26DazWJTw/s320/Augustin%252C+1801.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I'm not so sure about fancy flowers, but a lace edged veil with decent length would be rather lovely....<br />
<br />
...and then i saw these and yearned to be in their shoes:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjsU292cF75wSjSEczjD0DqBBa0TTk9IjgQFogfzHyFvsWW05SbZ-IpzelxiciCFI5NNaCef_Y0CbmmxdfCHWavxMXDWqPUCerUV2HNwsSM_QfqrnMxV9a-djXxroK7bbL1Ke2LEqEaCI/s1600/vintage-wedding-veil.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjsU292cF75wSjSEczjD0DqBBa0TTk9IjgQFogfzHyFvsWW05SbZ-IpzelxiciCFI5NNaCef_Y0CbmmxdfCHWavxMXDWqPUCerUV2HNwsSM_QfqrnMxV9a-djXxroK7bbL1Ke2LEqEaCI/s400/vintage-wedding-veil.jpg" width="367" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8BgaqupBZgYe2Tcpp8miXBgZTYPSDparywmD_oYRH1VyPPOfeUPJk_-000a6Y_Rk7OHWvkGL1wZoT5gs3IapGWzCfyyxKOkz3_it4Pkhb7f5zoM4_CUTJMBzlisJqFrOIQWM98ZDU0gE/s1600/ANN-GUISE-Silk-Wedding-Veils_18777_image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8BgaqupBZgYe2Tcpp8miXBgZTYPSDparywmD_oYRH1VyPPOfeUPJk_-000a6Y_Rk7OHWvkGL1wZoT5gs3IapGWzCfyyxKOkz3_it4Pkhb7f5zoM4_CUTJMBzlisJqFrOIQWM98ZDU0gE/s320/ANN-GUISE-Silk-Wedding-Veils_18777_image.jpg" width="297" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7A-7v5v7k7tE8HM5aJqDptbBGnvUTYvshL3VWBxGyztVOIjUtxJh9wz80F2yhd_hEO4xo9D3dONwrc4EEfDr0OqgXXZeKghwzFTdOlK3_OJ9JXDnpNTAmgqWKaOL_ef1shzgO_mJLA0Q/s1600/Lace-Wedding-Dress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7A-7v5v7k7tE8HM5aJqDptbBGnvUTYvshL3VWBxGyztVOIjUtxJh9wz80F2yhd_hEO4xo9D3dONwrc4EEfDr0OqgXXZeKghwzFTdOlK3_OJ9JXDnpNTAmgqWKaOL_ef1shzgO_mJLA0Q/s400/Lace-Wedding-Dress.jpg" width="271" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">...Then i thought, stuff it! Long, wind gusted veils are marvellous for photos on a windy day! Then i found the amazingly dazzling Grace Kelly in all her graceful glory:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha9pezywwyuVxS0zWIsMu9nx8aVhx8GCeIF5HVZ0dKABiGEdXQjGkbuCTpSvDHY2HaS60pjs3V_xHztjB2J9Szkqt3apwmHe-1gKuiTntDdp7Ku-KE0J8c64XjauIov6pBhDlzQDckkZc/s1600/wedding-gowns-inspired-by-grace-kelley.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha9pezywwyuVxS0zWIsMu9nx8aVhx8GCeIF5HVZ0dKABiGEdXQjGkbuCTpSvDHY2HaS60pjs3V_xHztjB2J9Szkqt3apwmHe-1gKuiTntDdp7Ku-KE0J8c64XjauIov6pBhDlzQDckkZc/s320/wedding-gowns-inspired-by-grace-kelley.jpg" width="248" /></a></div><br />
Suddenly i wasn't so sure i wanted a Regency dress or a long veil at all, recalling the number of times i'd drawn up scribbles of long sleeved lace dresses with silk buttons and tailored features like hers and both my grandmothers' (no doubt inspired by Grace). The guns will be stuck to though. Gorgeous as it is, i have found my Mr Darcy and i'll kick myself if i'm not Elizabeth Bennett for it. :-) And it gets better... i found evidence for a long (to the floor and beyond) veil in the midst of Regency, so it's not all mad... ;-)Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-73444431758607039182011-03-19T18:18:00.000-07:002012-05-20T14:29:43.342-07:00Of the pondering of early corsets...<u>Part 1</u><br />
<br />
'Surely there must be something at the V&A Museum?', ask my parents. Well in the world of post-1500 AD, yes. However if there were evidence of early corsets pre-1500 AD stashed somewhere in the V&A, my bones have a funny feeling many historical re-enactor women would be rabbiting on about it by now. There is little doubt from the multitude of images of women with unnatural figures that the corset probably started in its infancy as early as the 1400's at least. As i shall demonstrate below:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFNG9bhnrdnlaGLDy-fZJUOGF9vBZxOSiO2NmEMQo8kLdSgNiCmV52u4gkw0gw72wIp2fCNjzVmsamuL96g8A3VdEihpFwWLuthDaTrosV0_MjcK-h0mlc2wd1JUD3Z0cMHwUiz544VM/s1600/Silk+weaver.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGFNG9bhnrdnlaGLDy-fZJUOGF9vBZxOSiO2NmEMQo8kLdSgNiCmV52u4gkw0gw72wIp2fCNjzVmsamuL96g8A3VdEihpFwWLuthDaTrosV0_MjcK-h0mlc2wd1JUD3Z0cMHwUiz544VM/s1600/Silk+weaver.gif" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Medieval silk weaver</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
There is very little way this neckline and waistline could be achieved without the aid of a bodice.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ubZX6hEQQYkZGQDNUp6jtg7IkeQ41QN3PiT8ijnogJP5Kwyk732oPkBmqqSJayOsJQsN8mZo11FPbqK14L-_zXUVdx-8KKRf1r5CgRDGuG-wnU9_UOkb9cGviD0kuBGnz5rqwhPbbXQ/s1600/Romans+de+la+rose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ubZX6hEQQYkZGQDNUp6jtg7IkeQ41QN3PiT8ijnogJP5Kwyk732oPkBmqqSJayOsJQsN8mZo11FPbqK14L-_zXUVdx-8KKRf1r5CgRDGuG-wnU9_UOkb9cGviD0kuBGnz5rqwhPbbXQ/s400/Romans+de+la+rose.jpg" width="372" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The Romans de la Rose (Romance of the Rose)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The lady dancing in the bottom left hand corner was inspiration for a noble lady's dress a couple of years ago. I struggled to find affordable rose pink velvet for it, so i substituted it with a gorgeously light-weight red velvet (see below). If you look carefully at the ladies above however they all have a poise that is difficult to attain without further support, for to dance with good balance requires the upper body to lean forward slightly with the weight on the toes, rather than backwards with the weight on the heels. Their stomachs/hips appear to extend forwards distinctly as they stand in an odd posture, though whether this is a desired attribute of fertility with broad hips shown through artistic licence, the use of petticoats or the effect of a bodice it is not clear. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've seen other front lacing dresses with very flat, taught stomachers; flatter than i can achieve without a firm frame underneath. There is something that has not been quite right about my dress, so i think it needs a little boost...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWFPLLE9Z7YxiyGNXd_CA9Qtk2umSYek8kVCbCfgeX1LFKvSWUE_aShdYrUl6OD3I4TqU91PLtkiH1y3EW-A-ksS_BMi8KT_-jYjiBr6SlOAQlNMahWW1HxMtVb8zfm8_Xw5AdhgrzHEY/s1600/red+dress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWFPLLE9Z7YxiyGNXd_CA9Qtk2umSYek8kVCbCfgeX1LFKvSWUE_aShdYrUl6OD3I4TqU91PLtkiH1y3EW-A-ksS_BMi8KT_-jYjiBr6SlOAQlNMahWW1HxMtVb8zfm8_Xw5AdhgrzHEY/s320/red+dress.jpg" width="113" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
Corsets of some shape or form have been around for thousands of years. According to my research by the 1500's this would have been referred to as a 'pair of bodies', mostly at this point worn not with the aim of displaying a slim waist, but to keep an even, flat-fronted, round shape. The below website seemed the most informative on this matter:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/corsets/history.html#pictures">http://www.elizabethancostume.net/corsets/history.html#pictures</a><br />
<br />
It is my suspicion that corsets, just like the suggestion that Henry VIII's rather protruding codpiece fashion being the result of having to hide syphilis and the development of mending scarred skin tissue to casual cosmetic surgery, are rooted in a desire to correct medical problems. When tailored clothes came into being between 1300-1500, so did the exposure of physical human imperfection become highlighted.<br />
When a mother is expected to bring up marriageable daughters who have grace, eloquence and poise, the choice of nagging them not to slouch is not attractive. Why not stick them in a bodice so graceful posture becomes habit and their spines grow straight? If you have given birth to one or more children, you figure may not be what it once was, so why not give it a little boost? If you have a diet that does not encourage the ideal figure, why not give it a bit of a leg-up?<br />
<br />
So how were they made? Most assumptions i've heard are that buckram and some kind of glue, for it has been documented. But that's not to say that it was the only way. This first method has complications, for the buckram they used then i have heard is different from the 'buckram' we know now; the glue could be messy to make and use. So in this knowledge i gave up the hunt for an alternative solution for a few years... Until i found this recently:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/cording/cord.html">http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/cording/cord.html</a><br />
<br />
Yup. The alternative possibility is Hemp Cording. Which would back up my 'seam strength' theory. It would be slightly softer to the body form and truer to early paintings than the Tudor shape using buckram. For those like the silk worker (at the top), a bodice would require all materials they could get their hands on to create the desired finish. Since my medieval roles now stretch from merchant and armourer's wife to nobility, i must strive to craft a bodice that could have been created by middle classes with limited materials, yet look like a piece worthy of a Knight's Lady. My Mum said 'why bother putting so much effort into something no-one will see?'. My response is that unless it is tried, it will never be unravelled - this is an adventure of self-satisfaction and experimental fiddlings...<br />
<br />
My initial ideas have been to use two layers of cotton or linen for the cording, using either rolled scraps or string. For additional shape some twisted wire inserted in major cord seams. On the back, a simple lining, on the front a wooden busk placed down the centre between the cording, covered with silk or fine leather (which my mum suggested) to hide the bumps. These developed, for if i found a busk too uncomfortable then the plan B was to try couching wire of experimental thicknesses in an opposite direction to the cording on the back. So if cording were vertical, wire would be horizontal and vice versa.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Food for Thought:</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPqWVCSev9ncouaoMbKCuvODpps-txoHrDkQdu8OlhaVQii88MqfJo7AmvFUo0yX2u931o6MSLPhrr5ugqnNSVUpppOTy_8diSIAiRcp1n4iIcCCRVlA9JF35yhhJb0Djxfy0K3yqQCc/s1600/1484+-+Triptych+of+the+Family+Moreel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPPqWVCSev9ncouaoMbKCuvODpps-txoHrDkQdu8OlhaVQii88MqfJo7AmvFUo0yX2u931o6MSLPhrr5ugqnNSVUpppOTy_8diSIAiRcp1n4iIcCCRVlA9JF35yhhJb0Djxfy0K3yqQCc/s320/1484+-+Triptych+of+the+Family+Moreel.jpg" width="174" /></a></div>
<br />
Triptych of the Family Moreel, 1484<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1BMyEtdeJnibk51CZiutwvoGJUmtWSZwwpaMuVbIA6ILCUCbwowscDouHiGc-2e4lFNRZwCCh3t-dkGWYskkVuGjS9PujXE6soDXe3azj6VOjtoJTFhMPp-rkfqc1p9oCxewyld1e-LQ/s1600/Portrait+of+a+Young+Woman+by+Domenico+Ghirlandaio%252C+1485.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1BMyEtdeJnibk51CZiutwvoGJUmtWSZwwpaMuVbIA6ILCUCbwowscDouHiGc-2e4lFNRZwCCh3t-dkGWYskkVuGjS9PujXE6soDXe3azj6VOjtoJTFhMPp-rkfqc1p9oCxewyld1e-LQ/s320/Portrait+of+a+Young+Woman+by+Domenico+Ghirlandaio%252C+1485.gif" width="229" /></a></div>
<br />
Portrait of a Young Woman by Domenico Ghirlandaio, 1485<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_tOSKK0aIOFU_-ahozjL5X_l1WKT0r1Xfxx_zX7nC1ype_0EYLPMnaY2jWHEniXPXTxPK3VPJCFNRGUVrqtWt4PqU6I0StsB6rJghpP5ZBPiJ13ghDiQ3zRUAMryK8im3APecdDCwRY/s1600/Giovanna_Tornabuoni_ca.1488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_tOSKK0aIOFU_-ahozjL5X_l1WKT0r1Xfxx_zX7nC1ype_0EYLPMnaY2jWHEniXPXTxPK3VPJCFNRGUVrqtWt4PqU6I0StsB6rJghpP5ZBPiJ13ghDiQ3zRUAMryK8im3APecdDCwRY/s320/Giovanna_Tornabuoni_ca.1488.jpg" width="181" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Giovanna Tornabuoni, ca.1488<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixBZKezXAPEyYHGIZx_elzJwqsnYePnYMRMMx8BaMQTbWhzM1UC0rzpYlvV-WJedgsUDcGNNbXslCN4U73IRUrHSAE1LW3RgEfrF5CVqX5PTxASBCrSBVLKyXQC_UdqN6IXkidQ9cGcW4/s1600/The_Lady_with_an_Ermine+-+Cecilia+Gallerani+-+1489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixBZKezXAPEyYHGIZx_elzJwqsnYePnYMRMMx8BaMQTbWhzM1UC0rzpYlvV-WJedgsUDcGNNbXslCN4U73IRUrHSAE1LW3RgEfrF5CVqX5PTxASBCrSBVLKyXQC_UdqN6IXkidQ9cGcW4/s320/The_Lady_with_an_Ermine+-+Cecilia+Gallerani+-+1489.jpg" width="234" /></a></div>
<br />
The Lady with an Ermine - Cecilia Gallerani, 1489<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguF8MKFmE9T_ETFxUktbzVja53yX_LRoDkot0TtoS31PSQTca-IZwMIhxe-nqAsDRFVJDnoi6fhK_vs5JSwxYPn5-YBiFnGGsvtrz1bKEF_qHxJUe5IpOvy5DnL3sgkEoLIdMBTsKXa0E/s1600/Margaret+of+Austria+-+1490.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguF8MKFmE9T_ETFxUktbzVja53yX_LRoDkot0TtoS31PSQTca-IZwMIhxe-nqAsDRFVJDnoi6fhK_vs5JSwxYPn5-YBiFnGGsvtrz1bKEF_qHxJUe5IpOvy5DnL3sgkEoLIdMBTsKXa0E/s320/Margaret+of+Austria+-+1490.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Margaret of Austria, 1490<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Part 2 to come, with drawings and deliberation on the shape of the pattern i could use....Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-41019603775927334352011-03-13T20:31:00.000-07:002011-03-13T20:31:14.761-07:00Of the One Dress...<u>Part I</u><br />
<br />
Yep folks. The One Dress. The One dress that occupies every girl's mind form the moment she can put crayon to wall. The One dress that will be worn on (hopefully) the one day that will peak her youth and carry her into a lifelong commitment of Marriage. From the moment I could scribble, Regency dresses became a highlight of such dreams. Then i forgot about it for the next ten years...<br />
<br />
...until The Man came along. Not just any old man, The Man. Hopefully, he's the One Man too. Rather like the One Ring, but somewhat less evil. It's all a bit of a shock. After years of expecting to be soberly courting a man for at least a year (if not more) before he bends the knee, this Man did it in passionate whisked-away fashion, which actually was marvellously refreshing! A grand total of four months courting...<br />
<br />
...sometimes you can know a person for a lifetime, and still not feel like you know them. And sometimes you can know a person for a week and feel like you've always known them.<br />
<br />
Ok, call me mad. Go on, get on with it! Cos we already knew it. :-P Funny thing is, this guy comes from a family that seems to uphold a tradition of short engagements and long marriages lol.<br />
But once, i asked my Mum how she knew it was the right time/person to say 'yes'. She thought, then shrugged, then said 'it just... felt right'. Me: 'so how will i know when it's right?' Mum: 'You'll just know, it'll feel right'. Then she smiles this mysterious and fond smile... I didn't really think much of it until university, when relationships began to really happen and I realised what I really wanted out of life and someone to share it with. There was something different about this guy from all the others...<br />
<br />
Then the One Man popped the question on the 3rd Jan this year. I already knew the answer and he knew the chances were i'd say yes, but he still asked me properly. Suddenly it made sense what my Mum meant when you just... know. I was still really surprised when he asked, which made it magical. It was a moment more special than i could have ever imagined. <3 :-)<br />
<br />
Then the next thought was. OMG. The ONE DRESS!! What do i do? Where do i start?? All these years i've had ideas; the one moment I need to make decisions, i can't! Arggggh! Everyone naturally expected us to have a medieval wedding... after all, medieval history is our specialist zone. However we wanted something refreshing. Something to give us an excuse to get some gear for a different period that we wouldn't otherwise afford. So Regency theme it was. Maybe my little inner girl finally got her dream! :-D<br />
<br />
Research commenced; the more i read, the more it hit me how much i'd really not previously grasped a lot of the basics of Regency costume. Or perhaps i'd simply lacked the confidence and know-how to work from the foundations up? It's so beautiful because it is unlike any other dress fashion either side of it, particularly the 1800-1820's bit. Mostly Grecian and Egyptian inspired, women fashioned themselves after goddesses and Greek statues. Influential women include Empress Josephine, Recamier and Lady Caroline Lamb. They wore soft printed cottons, muslins and silks. Cotton and silk velvets and Indian sari material had a lot of influence, whilst at the same time signs of the militia featured in their coats and jackets (pelerines and spencers) with braid and buttons. Their hair was curled and bound by ribbons and bands of fabric. Even corsetry had a break from most hard boning - focus was not in the figure so much as the impression. In fact these softer versions were more commonly referred to as 'stays'.<br />
<br />
With regards to the One Dress, what would i choose? One of the blessings of a later period is that there are more visual sources and patterns available. The image that made the biggest impression on me was this:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMPGSa6wTV_ZiG3ZqecNCumoAr_Cvkc7Rudm69XTeqnMyNnAMP2fnHcNsJeKg6BGL9u31YImldxMU5_eBSlmIXtvP99rzykvZVgT9vnEDze-M-utsCLon7YdRo9TjUtsTZgnawc0FCcV0/s1600/1032_Koenigin_Luise_von_Preussen.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMPGSa6wTV_ZiG3ZqecNCumoAr_Cvkc7Rudm69XTeqnMyNnAMP2fnHcNsJeKg6BGL9u31YImldxMU5_eBSlmIXtvP99rzykvZVgT9vnEDze-M-utsCLon7YdRo9TjUtsTZgnawc0FCcV0/s320/1032_Koenigin_Luise_von_Preussen.jpeg" width="219" /></a></div><br />
This was Luise Von Preussen. To me this image was one of the most inspiring; her hair and tiara are dazzling!<br />
<br />
So the focus became the most Grecian-based decade, which seemed to be 1800-1810. The one below was the other picture to catch Squiggle's eye. Augustin, 1801. Her dress is so simple, yet those sleeves completely make it! Not sure my ears would take those massive pearls...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_O5OoWv3vaD0nzBT2mDJ7mujuoVPyDtaikJXcMbqkmHDL9OFoMrZJ6B4ALwjFLp6DHPKfq-Dd8EkdyZ8xUG_V2bFNz1wqvwrT8EFZzfQNet4nPeg-cfhTkP7eYlXLAu8fH26DazWJTw/s1600/Augustin%252C+1801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip_O5OoWv3vaD0nzBT2mDJ7mujuoVPyDtaikJXcMbqkmHDL9OFoMrZJ6B4ALwjFLp6DHPKfq-Dd8EkdyZ8xUG_V2bFNz1wqvwrT8EFZzfQNet4nPeg-cfhTkP7eYlXLAu8fH26DazWJTw/s400/Augustin%252C+1801.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The next image is where i chose to start when it came to understanding the basic features (from the V&A Museum, 1800) - usually a round or square neckline, gathered, with an opaque petticoat and translucent gown, a sash of some description and sleeves that don't necessarily have to be puffed:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2VopQD7HPOInoQEkVBBq9iIaryWyuTivzaijM6GXfys_3gQ1_XGyKc5ozx6BzwxB8XVkJgVzIlrjj3ybaf2QjrMT5Pp48Rap4d7D23u8O5_8c0wgTwDRz_utVce5Y2T50wxxqcckzzOk/s1600/1800+VA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2VopQD7HPOInoQEkVBBq9iIaryWyuTivzaijM6GXfys_3gQ1_XGyKc5ozx6BzwxB8XVkJgVzIlrjj3ybaf2QjrMT5Pp48Rap4d7D23u8O5_8c0wgTwDRz_utVce5Y2T50wxxqcckzzOk/s400/1800+VA.jpg" width="331" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Part II will look at the materials used for such dresses, and where it might be appropriate to use which. May include some personal sketches...Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-46056501385644486282011-03-07T09:20:00.000-08:002011-03-12T05:21:30.321-08:00Of the late 15th century Armourer's wife...<div>With the sudden event of engagement to an armourer and passionate re-enactor like myself, the requirement for late fifteenth century dress for shows (suiting that of the rising merchant/craftsmen class) has arisen, and so here is my research and progress thus far.<br />
I require something that is practical and warm, though bits of decoration/flourish are allowed. </div><div><div><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGGkxYVhFkAYY5eYq9q6TB4LiFBCP42NxgF3k34ZvDIm3F40GTQq8227lQ6QZHBdO3Ogeqtg7uWYZYWZxUl34W8h6f1l81qvMCS-sO43qr9bzU8O8lQK0qcj3hZVeeO1mBk1wTF1BVl9Y/s1600/Brocade+sleeves+and+gathered+skirt+at+waist+%25281465-8%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGGkxYVhFkAYY5eYq9q6TB4LiFBCP42NxgF3k34ZvDIm3F40GTQq8227lQ6QZHBdO3Ogeqtg7uWYZYWZxUl34W8h6f1l81qvMCS-sO43qr9bzU8O8lQK0qcj3hZVeeO1mBk1wTF1BVl9Y/s320/Brocade+sleeves+and+gathered+skirt+at+waist+%25281465-8%2529.jpg" width="224" /></a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>The image above was my initial source of inspiration, dated at roughly 1465-8. I love the lady on the right hand side with her brocade sleeves and very clear waist seam with gathered skirt. The way her belt hangs casually and the combination of a stunning green with pale pink lining. And again below, the 1470's lady at the feet of Christ shows a side laced gown with a gathered skirt waistline.</div><div><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcp1UpEnR9Jwqw7bb4MCDN4de4IAiYYgkX5o9wRWoinzVbAeMSTlLbcO5RrCZcLbmfaqCFzdIrMjdGeQoA54WxxOrpppLOX_bfCWJT4j2ceT-KBeVZaHlsus30ADTKUCfk5oqzgjn_X9Q/s1600/1470%2527s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcp1UpEnR9Jwqw7bb4MCDN4de4IAiYYgkX5o9wRWoinzVbAeMSTlLbcO5RrCZcLbmfaqCFzdIrMjdGeQoA54WxxOrpppLOX_bfCWJT4j2ceT-KBeVZaHlsus30ADTKUCfk5oqzgjn_X9Q/s400/1470%2527s.jpg" width="293" /></a></div><div><br />
</div><div><br />
</div><div>A lady below, again in green, has a similar waistline with little or no gathering but a full skirt. Note the way her belt equally hangs loose.<br />
<div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_8qP9DjQiZS5BNHZb2qxwOvA3t7jdVfqA6agIPVN4E6kACVe434sxzAXkINXyv6jrbNKpmBpUmaF47CZzr8aI9wgVdH3J9LEE_NRZvFUCa2YUDYN60Idy3j-9HvoUqDfDZm8H2xTqB8/s1600/Waist+seam+and+hem+and+lining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_8qP9DjQiZS5BNHZb2qxwOvA3t7jdVfqA6agIPVN4E6kACVe434sxzAXkINXyv6jrbNKpmBpUmaF47CZzr8aI9wgVdH3J9LEE_NRZvFUCa2YUDYN60Idy3j-9HvoUqDfDZm8H2xTqB8/s320/Waist+seam+and+hem+and+lining.jpg" width="135" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This woman below has been important, for unlike any garment i've made before, this outfit will have side lacing using metal closed rings and so this image has been increasingly valuable to help me understand how to do it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXBJURXrHTKjZTg7VyDN0fh4eMhsCFscQtpuWryyjcqoRzJxqbKAu9IPOyICBbpc8_CWsTBtmSNA-A4jF3KvIP2U4PQjT6yoW_BdGhFmd82YtsPn-WHWSSmMZv1k42bM1zUXjO1HDe0c/s1600/sidelacing4%252C+cadieux.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXBJURXrHTKjZTg7VyDN0fh4eMhsCFscQtpuWryyjcqoRzJxqbKAu9IPOyICBbpc8_CWsTBtmSNA-A4jF3KvIP2U4PQjT6yoW_BdGhFmd82YtsPn-WHWSSmMZv1k42bM1zUXjO1HDe0c/s1600/sidelacing4%252C+cadieux.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">With the aid of Mary G.Houston's 'Medieval Costume in England and France', i've decided to use one of her excellent pattern illustrations to try and shape my costume. Here are some initial sketches of what i hope to achieve, pattern-wise they do not necessarily follow what i have now, but they should give an idea:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Front and side:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi18pRiaN976aJds2fUi7phr4NQ-t2Xy2vt4jhcQ4TTggs3BUvx58W22snniMU7MBPxL4WOBXh6HkaLCrf7QWhYFfWeWBC_sYPDPuXoiCjHzWtdTQeHUYJQGpYo07cuhgn31B7k-nBVUcc/s1600/P1040105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi18pRiaN976aJds2fUi7phr4NQ-t2Xy2vt4jhcQ4TTggs3BUvx58W22snniMU7MBPxL4WOBXh6HkaLCrf7QWhYFfWeWBC_sYPDPuXoiCjHzWtdTQeHUYJQGpYo07cuhgn31B7k-nBVUcc/s640/P1040105.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Back:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglZbqIMIH9TLeA8mE38quDOYQiek_PR2bMI5JVdxiHvMfvJGnYaPdTjlDzPdQA7frwhmTKmld9rdCcElB-WjaS3xIF9-djAZJnpJGPbcrxtkZDBWSq9TlqrfnZDGZBC1BuvrNP0HMAwsU/s1600/P1040108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglZbqIMIH9TLeA8mE38quDOYQiek_PR2bMI5JVdxiHvMfvJGnYaPdTjlDzPdQA7frwhmTKmld9rdCcElB-WjaS3xIF9-djAZJnpJGPbcrxtkZDBWSq9TlqrfnZDGZBC1BuvrNP0HMAwsU/s400/P1040108.JPG" width="287" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The first sketch above has a 'frill' thing along the bottom of the underdress, which until now i assumed was extra flair to keep the skirt out. However i've been informed that it is actually extra skirt length pinned up on the outside, which makes sense! So now i no longer will have a frill; there never should have been one! I intend to make a silk partlet to sit on top or lie underneath the neckline to keep off the sun.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><u><b>The Under Dress</b></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><u><b><br />
</b></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">Thus far the Squiggle has entirely hand sewn her bodice section - it needs the lacing finishing on the right hand side and decorative gold thread edging, but once the skirt is added, it will be complete!</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><u><b><br />
</b></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhYULisXqe9SHOP3zCB1cJd1PqTfV04uCLr01FGzGNsDemOU5J7iXnZPuxWyJF6Afexzk0F49WePNdT116LB1NQIPzZ3ft-mBa7keSjypXCMKNTl8KU4wHPzEVp6hexrsE0G2G5rNtz4/s1600/P1040083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhYULisXqe9SHOP3zCB1cJd1PqTfV04uCLr01FGzGNsDemOU5J7iXnZPuxWyJF6Afexzk0F49WePNdT116LB1NQIPzZ3ft-mBa7keSjypXCMKNTl8KU4wHPzEVp6hexrsE0G2G5rNtz4/s320/P1040083.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><u><b><br />
</b></u></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">As you can see, the lacing on the top edge will possibly require some stiffening such as braid or cord to prevent it from wrinkling. It is my hope that the tension of the removeable sleeves will also help keep it flat to the skin. If all else fails, the two flaps will be joined. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKyuyytOWuEj1ruxdAHJmSOMV1kHOX8G8FeRyPuNsxB_CZTmTeUw74Szo0JSwD7gG7Ohp_xiyhMGVDdJyBhp0sxBf0YXxAGc2gk-cbuJjs7_GDaJfT20Gn_TbCmtcsNhSosD7erlKXf88/s1600/P1040086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKyuyytOWuEj1ruxdAHJmSOMV1kHOX8G8FeRyPuNsxB_CZTmTeUw74Szo0JSwD7gG7Ohp_xiyhMGVDdJyBhp0sxBf0YXxAGc2gk-cbuJjs7_GDaJfT20Gn_TbCmtcsNhSosD7erlKXf88/s320/P1040086.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Here is the back of my bodice, it has limited shape on a hanger, but once on me hopefully will make more sense.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpspDPv72rAZAjbiHV_jqsy1HHoHQIXDPNsN7oUUupT0I-47LwFQ6XNxPORP7und_3fKJmkWpqx8tSuFzXYc9trk160ApGqvfcCKgnSFc4VqA1gxJWsUlGvftpIKbRd96NLwxY-r94Ono/s1600/P1040090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpspDPv72rAZAjbiHV_jqsy1HHoHQIXDPNsN7oUUupT0I-47LwFQ6XNxPORP7und_3fKJmkWpqx8tSuFzXYc9trk160ApGqvfcCKgnSFc4VqA1gxJWsUlGvftpIKbRd96NLwxY-r94Ono/s320/P1040090.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br />
<b><u>Latest Development:</u></b><br />
<b><u><br />
</u></b><br />
Skirt has been added to the bodice, just needs the bottom hemming, the inside seams tidying and the removable sleeves added! Quite happy with the front, very little alteration needed.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZjxGspK1MaKBnR8fp1qNPfJdNWlpC0gPZBu64WUvMDbGvcjYwZfFXxuw4Tswg0VpOPMqHlVqA3EoU3wRofMRd26QoMvNkPhYYvDAllAMpEsmBF0yqMgI6Oqj38OzmcuIcAZ9aoHPDFE/s1600/P1040095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqZjxGspK1MaKBnR8fp1qNPfJdNWlpC0gPZBu64WUvMDbGvcjYwZfFXxuw4Tswg0VpOPMqHlVqA3EoU3wRofMRd26QoMvNkPhYYvDAllAMpEsmBF0yqMgI6Oqj38OzmcuIcAZ9aoHPDFE/s320/P1040095.JPG" width="200" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The back as I thought needs some taking in at the centre seam to fit round the shoulders, for it's quite tricky to do the back all by one Squiggle!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR2RnsR56PH1xMFoBZtziUI7AvqJvQBqlenEkc5KDiSJULZRE9h3wHQL-OW3ygZWZ6LnjmCC8Yyu9JKasvCgxKJrTc5rtTNLpkfZfbeCBVO31FcGvVPJQZh1jYzPyPnpCZ9eOmWihap9w/s1600/P1040100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR2RnsR56PH1xMFoBZtziUI7AvqJvQBqlenEkc5KDiSJULZRE9h3wHQL-OW3ygZWZ6LnjmCC8Yyu9JKasvCgxKJrTc5rtTNLpkfZfbeCBVO31FcGvVPJQZh1jYzPyPnpCZ9eOmWihap9w/s320/P1040100.JPG" width="178" /></a></div><br />
</div></div></div>Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-31418405790489578032011-03-06T17:58:00.000-08:002011-03-06T17:58:23.768-08:00Of a Knight's Lady...Today has been a fruitful one for the Squiggle! Frustration over the skirt hems of my underdress ensued this morning, only to soon be distracted...<br />
<br />
After some organising with a lovely new friend, I started to become a small part of something exciting and new for me:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.knights-tournament-of-foote.co.uk/#">http://www.knights-tournament-of-foote.co.uk/#</a><br />
<br />
With myself attending an increasing number of fiancé's shows this year, it was pretty inevitable i suppose! ;-) But a pleasant surprise and thus far i have been made most welcome among their company. Squiggle looks forward to the forthcoming events!<br />
<br />
Also an enthusiastic lass has asked for costume help, so i'm happily bubbling away on a costume stream... i do wonder why i don't finally answer a frequently asked question and make costume for a living....Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3661333046650050888.post-80307467738439715812011-03-05T17:46:00.000-08:002011-03-07T07:35:39.300-08:00Of the tortoise and the hare...<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Yup, as per Squiggle usual, I'm up writing at an ever-so-student and insane hour. The time is 01:41am, the place is my cluttered room, littered with the haunts and shadows of an incomplete and uninspired degree dissertation. To those of my current course, this will be familiar and almost comforting to read! ;-)</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Q. So what does a Squiggle do, when all energy has run its course and the once tearing stride of a hare grinds to a halt? When the well of academic ingenuity dries up? A. The Squiggle realises that perhaps the mistake was to be a hare in the first place. Secondly the Squiggle tries and fails to imitate a tortoise and simply ends up staring blankly at a screen for half an hour. In a third attempt, the Squiggle tries to return to something different that usually produces satisfying and confidence boosting results....</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">.... and so within minutes the Squiggle can be seen heaving her fifty year old sewing machine onto her desk and the room rapidly evolves into a swirling soup of red linen and pins! Yes, this was the moment for the meditative creation of a 15th century dress. I learnt the hard way over six years that to hare through a dress is not ideal if you still want to love the result two years later. So the two tortoise p's; patience and precision! With a lack of suitable costume fitting that of a medieval armourer's wife (to be able to do re-enactments with the fiancé), I relished the opportunity to breach the gap between the simple Medieval patterns I have known for ages and the more tailored, Tudor styles that we are accustomed to today. Tailoring clothes to fit the female form was a growing feature in the fifteenth century, particularly in the later half - in fact just starting with a pre-tudor underdress has been a revelation experience in itself! It does not conform to casually quartering the measurements of garments; there are front panels, straps and side panels, not to mention the back panels! In fact it is more a test of mathematics and mental judgement than anything else which makes a vast contrast. We have more physical and artistic evidence for the construction of such garments, so thus i have less room to make guesses or self-inventions. Which leads me onto the subject that many women ponder:</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Corsets. When did they start? How were they made, and why? In so far as we can tell, there was no use for them until clothes begin to fit in the fourteenth century onwards, though this is assumed, for we have no remaining evidence. And why should we? If they were purely functional, there should be no reason why they would last until today.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Be it a means of correcting posture, hiding a gluttonous diet or disguising the bodily dis-figuration from bearing so many children, there is little doubt that there must have been an origin to the advantageous Tudor 'bodiced look'. Some have suggested that strips of cloth may have bound stomachs, others have considered the use of whale bone, reeds and willow among other forms of support. In discussion with other costume enthusiasts, we have debated the use of feather or fish glue as a stiffener. This is not as ridiculous as it may appear; some Ancient Greek re-enactors have tried and tested fish glue to set layers of linen in order to form their body armour - and it works! However in attempting to re-create my own Medieval to Tudor transition garments, it has become apparent that it must have something to do with the placing of seams. A greater number of component segments results in many vertical seams, of which there are many seam edges with a chance of fraying. In providing enough material for future alteration and being able to 'double over' the edges at the back, they automatically produce a combined strength and stiff quality to the fabric, as well as ensuring that the garment lasts whole. Inside such seam folds, one might be able to insert an extra rod of some description. This is just a personal theory, and the general consensus seems to be that it most likely started as a whole dress with some minimal stiffening around the upper body, which went from there. I'm always trying to test the boundaries on this topic, so watch this space for many more crazy theories!</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Thanks to Caroline for the following image of Maria Portinari, see how her dress has odd angles at the hips and the bodice of the girl behind her has a shape that only something stiff would achieve:</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVnIN00yPC0W9cAjF80aawXSak-haSMAn8SZK_xq4zbCNVzOAVbw3vW6rs7-o8KzqtZsg_G5LD25NxmZKy0vYqvgsRAGAQV8RLFfaKiYO-wCiosnhEpJ3m4sFN5o0W-cR3pjUJ1nlYVOk/s1600/Maria+Portninari.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVnIN00yPC0W9cAjF80aawXSak-haSMAn8SZK_xq4zbCNVzOAVbw3vW6rs7-o8KzqtZsg_G5LD25NxmZKy0vYqvgsRAGAQV8RLFfaKiYO-wCiosnhEpJ3m4sFN5o0W-cR3pjUJ1nlYVOk/s320/Maria+Portninari.jpg" width="273" /></span></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Because I have no wench-like bosom, any further support in my bodices risks only flattening myself further, so i shall settle this time for thick, flat seams. My current underdress has used about five-six metres of linen, for though it has a fitted top, the skirt is extremely full (photos to follow!) It already bears great weight, so it's becoming increasingly tricky to imagine the weight once i have a similar pink-linen-lined, green wool overdress on, with equal quantities of fabric! The neckline is Tudor square to suit the turn of the century, but it will have no hooped skirt, being based on some paintings from the time.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">I considered hand sewing the entire thing, which i did for the bodice, but now the weighty Singer sewing machine is a true blessing.... Squiggle would have gone truly nuts without it! :-D</span>Vixhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07437446161898027364noreply@blogger.com0